Anyone that worked with soldering knows the process releases some fumes. Those fumes can be considered toxic containing, even traces of some heavy metals like lead. When you work with electronics as a professional, the ideal is to use a professional fume extractor. But these devices are a bit expensive to an amateur as me. I used to blow the fumes away but, after some time, I got tired of that and decided, in the best DIYer tradition, to make my own fume extractor.
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There are several ways to connect a remote control in a PC. I will not debate if it is right or wrong still using an infra red controller to control devices. The main objective of this post is to show that it is possible to install a remote control able to turn the PC ON (since an ATX or compatible power source is available).

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Continuing from the previous post the idea is to improve the box’s visual to make it looks more like what was supposed to be its main functionality. In order to make that happens let’s add in the box’s cover a decal as cool as the standard arcade’s. Let’s also improve the long term quality adding an acrylic cover as a final touch in order to make it looks even better and protect the decal.

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When you start working on electronics projects, one of the most important item is power supply. There are many ways to follow on this subject:

  • Purchase a power supply for each of the necessary voltage (12V and 5V are pretty easy to find, 3.3V not so much)
  • Use the computer USB outlet (it’s almost a standard on Arduino projects)
  • User batteries

For simple and infrequent projects, you can move forward with one of the options above, but when you get serious projects, these options are not very good (they are not practical, the lack power, …). So, the choice is to purchase a professional bench power supply, which, in general, can cost a lot or, being a DIYer, you can use an old  AT/ATX computer power supply and make your own bench power supply, adding the features you like most.

This post is about the making of a my bench power supply. The second part of this post is on Bench Power Supply Part II  – Assembly.
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The Graber i3 is a 3D Printer Prusa i3 clone, but with a laser cut MDF structure. There are lots of Graber i3 kits, a little bit different from each other, but the majority is based on the same MDF structure, provided on this GitHub project. It’s a good project, to be honest, it’s ver stiff and easy to assemble.

A problem that had not occurred to me though – in fact, I didn’t notice it for months – is that MDF wood expands/shrinks depending on the heat difference. For the most part of the MDF structure, this is not a big deal. But the printing bed, for ABS printing is heated up to 100C and it is bolted to the MDF base, thin and almost fragile. After some time, I noticed that the heat from the printbed made the MDF base to curve down. The consequence is that the base was colliding against the zipties that hold the Y axis rods and endstops. This collision was enough to make a difference on the printber height (relative to the nozzle) and propagate as object imperfections.
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Since I started 3D printing my projects and posting them on Thingiverse (after sometime, also here), I had the need to take pictures from the objects I had printed, the assembly and even recording them. I purchased a Cutting Mat, gree, with dimension markings painted all over it, which helps a lot on the picture contrast and also to give an idea of the objects size. But the biggest problem, when taking pictures is always lighting.
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