This will be the first of a series of two articles about peripheral automation (writing about home automation would take considerably more time). The aim here will be to explain how would be possible to control objects that could be automated through power line, anything that can be connected directly in the wall, that cutting the power and turning it on again would be enough to stop and start working again (for example a lampshade, a lamp, a fan, etc). There is still the possibility to automate infrared, a.k.a. remote control, controlled devices (tv, cable boxes, air conditioner, stereo systems, etc). All controlled by cellphone, from anywhere there is internet access.

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If you had to mark several points (for drilling them) on the edge of a MDF sheet (for exemple), you know that mark them precisely on the center of the edge can take some time (depending on the sheet thickness, it can be even complicated). Using this tool, the marking task turns into an easy one.

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Anyone that worked with soldering knows the process releases some fumes. Those fumes can be considered toxic containing, even traces of some heavy metals like lead. When you work with electronics as a professional, the ideal is to use a professional fume extractor. But these devices are a bit expensive to an amateur as me. I used to blow the fumes away but, after some time, I got tired of that and decided, in the best DIYer tradition, to make my own fume extractor.
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There are several ways to connect a remote control in a PC. I will not debate if it is right or wrong still using an infra red controller to control devices. The main objective of this post is to show that it is possible to install a remote control able to turn the PC ON (since an ATX or compatible power source is available).

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Until some time ago, when I was not using my headphone (the one I use on my computer) I let it hung on a hook attatched to the cabinet. But recently, I purchased a new headphone, with better sound quality and more beautiful. I decided that the hook was not a good companion for such good device. So, I started looking for some better holder that I could 3D print.
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Continuing from the previous post the idea is to improve the box’s visual to make it looks more like what was supposed to be its main functionality. In order to make that happens let’s add in the box’s cover a decal as cool as the standard arcade’s. Let’s also improve the long term quality adding an acrylic cover as a final touch in order to make it looks even better and protect the decal.

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When you start working on electronics projects, one of the most important item is power supply. There are many ways to follow on this subject:

  • Purchase a power supply for each of the necessary voltage (12V and 5V are pretty easy to find, 3.3V not so much)
  • Use the computer USB outlet (it’s almost a standard on Arduino projects)
  • User batteries

For simple and infrequent projects, you can move forward with one of the options above, but when you get serious projects, these options are not very good (they are not practical, the lack power, …). So, the choice is to purchase a professional bench power supply, which, in general, can cost a lot or, being a DIYer, you can use an old  AT/ATX computer power supply and make your own bench power supply, adding the features you like most.

This post is about the making of a my bench power supply. The second part of this post is on Bench Power Supply Part II  – Assembly.
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Some FDM printers (like the Prusa i3, and others), whether purchased assembled or as a kit, are already equiped with some auto-leveling feature, that means an automatic leveling of the nozzle relative to the printbed, in a way that the distance between both are always the same – and as little as possible. On the other hand, there are other 3D printers / kits that doesn’t have such feature. In this cases, it’s necessary to use the endstops (micro-switches that limit the axis movement) and, for fine-adjustment, screws / springs that change the height of the printbed.
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